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Author Topic: orange on slab  (Read 2037 times)
Boulder Boy!
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« Reply #30 on: March 09, 2010, 11:07:14 am »

Read the whole post dude  Roll Eyes
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8a
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« Reply #31 on: March 09, 2010, 11:54:13 am »

Y

I would suggest though that this is down to their incredible strength & power to weight ratio, Lynne Hill is another example of this. 

Yeah... I am a bit confused now to what you are wanting me to read? I have read the post and you said that climbers who are small get away with it because of their immense strength and power to weight ratio... but children don't have strength. They may have good power to weight ratio but that is a relative measure compared to an adult. An adult will have strength as well which may balance out their lack in power to weight ratio. Chris Sharma can hold an edge with 2 fingers and dead hang it... no child is able to do that...

We may not be able to apply similar rules that small children can climb harder routes than taller children but we certainly can apply that rule to adults even if they climb 4+. At the end of the day, a smaller adult tends to be stronger naturally than a taller adult because they have shorter levers. This isn't always the case but take a million people 5ft tall and a million people 6ft tall and you will find on average the 5ft tall people are stronger.
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gurumed
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« Reply #32 on: March 10, 2010, 02:49:20 am »

At the end of the day, a smaller adult tends to be stronger naturally than a taller adult because they have shorter levers. This isn't always the case but take a million people 5ft tall and a million people 6ft tall and you will find on average the 5ft tall people are stronger.

It depends.  There's a balance of competing factors between physiological strength (muscle length, cross sectional area, volume), neurological strength (recruitment), and mechanical strength (the muscle's force angle on the lever that you mentioned).

The cross section of a muscle dictates its absolute strength, and this scales with height by a power of two.  The volume of the muscle, and thus its weight scales with height by a power of three.  So if you double someones height you multiply the strength of their muscle by four, but you also multiply their weight by eight.

Research in power lifters has shown muscle strength and height are related by a common factor, but that muscle strength approaches a maximum at about a height of 183cm for men, and 175cm for women. At this point other factors start to out weigh the cross-sectional advantage.

So if you want someone to curl free weights, you might find the taller tend to be stronger than the shorter.  But if you want people to do pull ups you'll find the shorter to appear stronger.

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Boulder Boy!
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« Reply #33 on: March 10, 2010, 02:25:49 pm »

However having watched many a BRYCS competition it is always the smaller climbers in the category who struggle the most.  So I don't think we can apply the same standards further down the grades! 

Doesn't this imply the opposite to what I was saying?

Nope, I said that the standards you applied to Ramon couldn't be applied to other climbers further down the grades (like 6a etc) as they wouldn't have the same power to weight ratio!  Therefore the smaller climbers at the Brycs would always struggle.  Tongue Now I have work to do!
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